Ephesus

Having arrived at Selcuk/Ephesus from Troas and Assos late Tuesday night, we found a dirt road leading up a forested mountain on which to park the car and sleep, and then toured the city of Ephesus on Wednesday. We got lunch at a little Turkish restaurant in the neighboring modern town of Selcuk, eating at one of their outside tables.

Paul first visited Ephesus toward the end of his second journey, having ended a lengthy stay in Corinth, and heading east toward Jerusalem. He was accompanied presumably still by Silas and Timothy, and certainly by Aquila and Priscilla (Acts 18:18-21). He stayed briefly, perhaps only the weekend, though Aquila and Priscilla stayed and made Ephesus their home for at least the next couple of years.

Then on his third journey, Paul came to Ephesus and stayed for 2 1/2 to 3 years, teaching initially in the synagogue, then in the school of Tyrannus, until all Asia became acquainted with the gospel message (19:1-41). Here in Ephesus the seven sons of Sceva were beaten up and stripped of their clothing by an evil spirit, and also here Demetrius the silversmith riled up similar craftsmen, instigating the riot which occupied the Ephesus Theater. Demetrius' particular trade was in making silver shrines of Artemis, whose massive temple was at Ephesus; her temple is reported to have been one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

(A model of the Artemis temple, in the local museum. It is presumed that a statue of Artemis stood in the center, where you can see the roof is open so that she stood unshaded.)

Our first stop was at the remains of that temple. It was built beyond a hill, separated from the main part of the city of Ephesus by more than a mile, and today the site feels like it would have been somewhat 'out of town.' Only one column of the temple is standing, but enough ruins remain that one can see the outline of the whole structure. In the first century, the temple was 344 feet long, and 18o feet wide...four times the size of the Athenian Parthenon. Its columns were 60 feet tall, and the whole structure was made nearly entirely of marble. One can imagine the city was proud of the temple, and of Artemis, and ready to protest any defamation of it or of her. One can also imagine the great trade that existed in making and selling silver goods associated with the goddess and her temple.

(the temple ruins today; for scale, note the person standing at center left, and that he is standing closer to the camera than is the column)

To better visualize the area as a whole, you can see it all at GoogleEarth by putting latitude/longitude coordinates in the search field. For the theater at the center of Ephesus: copy and paste 37 56 27 N 27 20 32 E. For the Temple of Artemis, 37 56 58 N 27 21 49 E.

After a tour of the museum (between the temple site and the modern town of Selcuk), we headed off to the ruins of Ephesus itself. Between the parking area and the gated entrance were all kinds of souvenir shops, and every effort to make money off the tourists. One guy was selling “genuine fake watches.” Nathan remarked that it was as if they had decided to do an extreme caricature of tourist traps, a spoof of how bad they can be! But then you buy your ticket and go through the gate...

First you come to the street that connected the harbor to the Theater. Unfortunately, the harbor has silted in so that ships cannot come inland; the sea is now three miles away, but one can imagine. The Theater of course is magnificent, as are its acoustics. Nathan could stand at the top with my camera, and record as I stood at center stage and read from Acts 19 about the riot that happened in that very spot.

Then down another street leading from the Theater, one finds the facade of the Library of Celsus, built some 50 to 80 years after Paul's stay in the city. It was three stories, though the facade has only two remaining. In fact an earthquake toppled it in the 10th century, and it was only re-erected in the 1970's. Next to the Library are arched entrances to the large Agora, or market area, where the people of Ephesus bought and sold their goods. Going uphill from the library is the street of the Curetes, along which are other ancient structures: temples, homes, a brothel, shops, a public bathroom, etc.

(Above: Library of Celsus facade; to the right, entrances to the Agora. Below, the Agora; Library facade visible at left; the street from the Theater to the Library runs just outside this photo, parallel to the nearest row of columns)

But consider again the Agora (GoogleEarth 37 56 24 N 27 20 26 E). It lies next to the Library, bordered by the street that leads immediately to the Theater. It seems quite likely that silversmiths would have had their shops and done their business in the Agora, and it is reported by John McCray in the Criswell Theological Review that one archaeologist has reported locating silversmith shops there in the Agora. It then becomes quite easy to visualize Demetrius rounding up the tradesmen, the city filling with confusion as they began crying out "Great is Artemis of the Ephesians," and then the rush to the Theater just down and across the street, dragging two of Paul's Christian brothers with them as they ran (Gaius and Aristarchus). Then for two hours their voices reverberated in that Theater, “Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!”

(view from the Theater to the Agora)

Well, great she was, but only in their minds, and in the magnificence of the temple they built for her. But they are now dead, and her temple is now in scant ruins, a place for the curious like me, and for sheep to wander and graze.

And our God still stands.

Overcast Morning in Budapest (plus Turkey!)

Chisinau Moldova ceased to be our home at 6 am this morning, as we said our goodbyes to the two Sergheis, both of whom accompanied us to the airport. Various feelings about this departure, but both of us are glad for our stay in Moldova, yet also glad that we should be home in the US tonight. Right now, I'm sitting in the Budapest airport, foot propped up on the base of a large airport window wall overlooking the taxiways and runways. The sky is gray, but a few holes in the clouds hint at a sunnier afternoon.

I still have a lot to post, in particular about our travels to Turkey. Some is in this post, and more will come in the next few days, though I am not sure you all will be as interested to read this blog once we're actually back home in the States. I'll assume you are, and you don't have to correct me if you're not! :)

...but first, I'm very happy to mention this:

IT'S JUST BEEN GLORIOUS
The storied life of Marlene Smelser

As many of you know, my Dad has written a book about my Mom's life – we lost her in 2002. It's a great book (I might be less than plainly objective, but it's still a great book!). It traces her beginnings and the things that might have held her back from what she made of herself, and shows the godly woman and lady she became. Dad avoided writing as a preachy instructor, and simply told her story. It, as was her life, is filled with adventure. The main title line is a statement she made more than once in the days just before her death, and reflects her general attitude about what life can be, and more directly about her experience in particular.

The book is to be available this very week, and will be initially available through Dad and us three sons (Jeff, Scott, and I). Bookstores will have it a little later. The cost is $20, shipped without tax, though I'll add shipping cost (actual shipping amount). Feel free to contact me for placing orders, or any of us for picking up a copy in person. I'll provide more exact info in a day or so.

TURKEY

Entering the country from Malko Turnovo Bulgaria, this is the first Turkish village we came to. It was the mosque's minaret, the first I'd ever seen, that caught my attention and made me stop for a picture.

We ended up getting to see a little more than I was expecting as of the beginning of the week. In our order of travel, we saw Troas, nighttime in Assos, Ephesus, Miletus, Colosse, Laodicea, Hierapolis, Antioch of Pisidia, Pergamum, and finally Assos in the daylight. It was great!

To cross the Dardanelles, that narrow strip of water that helps join the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, we came to the town of Gelibolu. Very attractive downtown area next to the water, friendly staff in the little restaurant where we got sandwiches and sampled some eggplant and peppers, and friendly little school kids eager to talk with the Americans. And then there are the Turks who seek to make a buck from the tourists, especially I suppose from the richer western tourists. We had about 45 minutes before the ferry would take us across, so we left the car in the line at the ferry to go explore, get lunch, etc. When we returned, we saw that all the windows of our very dirty car had been cleaned, and two guys approached wanting to be paid for the job. They of course put the guilt trip on everybody, we cleaned your windows and you don't pay! We were not convinced.

Once that was cleared up, a fella selling cologne (Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, etc.) came around trying to make us his customers. We were sitting in the car with windows down waiting to board, and he comes up, speaking mainly Turkish but enough English to get the idea across. We on the other hand, hadn't shaved or bathed for two days, but/so (?) he was persistent. Very friendly, some Turkish, some English. Wouldn't take no for an answer. We finally had success in turning him away, a bit later drove on board the ferry, and before we got out of the car he was back at the window. It was now much more Turkish than English. Finally I said, smiling as I did so, “Cologne will not help us! And we don't understand what you are saying. We don't understand the words that are coming out of your mouth!” Some of you will recognize that adapted line. We enjoyed the moment, and he finally gave up.

Other people in town were very friendly to us with nothing to gain for themselves, and I'll say more about that later. An hour or so after the crossing, we were at...

Troas

Paul first visited here on the second journey, having come west past the Galatian cities, accompanied by Silas and Timothy. There he was shown the vision of the Macedonian man saying “Come over to Macedonia and help us!” There Luke joined Paul and his companions as they set out to cross the sea to Neapolis and Philippi, and the rest of Macedonia.

Paul visited again on his third journey, assembling with the saints to break bread, preaching until midnight, and raising sleepy Eutychus from the dead after his fall from the window.

Troas is divided by the little narrow road that now runs through it, with widely scattered ruins. We had hoped to find an upper room window in which to pose "asleep" for a picture, but had no luck. In the previous post is a picture of temple ruins there. From the main concentration (as best we found) of ruins, it's about a 20 minute hike to the sea, across tilled fields and through olive groves where friendly local Turks were picking olives. Then a little north along the shore is the ancient harbor. From there, Paul sailed to Neapolis and Philippi, and into there he sailed in order to assemble and break bread with the Troas church in Acts 20. The harbor now is partially filled in by silt.

(looking past the harbor site -partially hidden- across the Aegean Sea, toward Neopolis and Philippi)

ASSOS

Daylight was dimming as we left Troas, and we didn't make it to the seaside town of Assos until after dark. The city of Assos was high above the water on a hill, with nearly a cliff dropping down to its harbor, still functional today. I'll save my pics of Assos until we come back to it in daylight. But as we drove toward the top of Assos, looking for a way to head out of town to the east, the cobblestone street narrowed considerably, and as we happened to be there right at 6:30 pm, the prayer call from the minaret began. We finally came to a spot where we saw no further lane going upward, just as several muslim Turks were walking across right in front of us, who possibly (at least in our minds) looked annoyed at our presence, our headlights, and our activity at the time of their prayer call. And this is our first night in Turkey. We made a retreat downhill, and found the road headed out.

We drove a few hours that night, finally reaching Ephesus. More on that in my next post.

Turkey Is Great!

It's about midnight Tuesday night, and we just arrived at Ephesus. We're sitting in the car outside a hotel, connected to their wireless network to just let everybody know we're fine. The Turks we've met have been nothing but friendly, helpful, and cheerful.

Border crossings were very good getting here (unlike on our trip to the Ukraine on Saturday). Turkey is a really picturesque country, and we've taken lots of pictures of it for our own. Crossing the Dardanelles by ferry boat, we both entered our third continent, Asia.

(at right, leaving Europe: pulling away from the dock at Gelibolu)

Today we saw Troas, came here in the evening hours, will see Ephesus and Miletus tomorow, and will work our way back north, with a jog to the east for Colosse, Laodicea, and Hierapolis, and then see Pergamum and Assos farther north. Looks like the cities of Galatia will have to wait.

(at left, temple ruins at Troas)

We got up at 4:45 this morning, so we need sleep (actually Nathan already is), so this is going to be brief! Bye for now.

Headed South

It's 10:30 pm Sunday night, and I'm packed and just about ready to get to bed. Planning to get up and leave around 4 am headed south to Turkey. No time for a lengthy post right now. I hope to be able to post new entries from Turkey, but if you don't see any, please don't assume anything too bad! I just don't know how easy it will be to get internet access while we're traveling the way we will be traveling. I hope we can find some internet joints for web access...or even wireless outside a nice hotel.

We plan to be back here in Chisinau Saturday evening, meet with the churches on Sunday, and then fly home on Monday.

Basic Outline of the Last Three Days:

Friday morning: Balti
Friday afternoon: Picked up rental car
Friday afternoon: Didn't go to the museum
Friday evening: Study with Christians here in Chisinau
Saturday 4:45 am to 8:45 pm: Trip to Odessa, Ukraine
(stories to tell about that)
Saturday, late evening: Supper at home of members here
Sunday morning: Nathan/Balti, Me/Tiraspol (visitors in Tiraspol)
Sunday evening: Assembly here in Chisinau

Mitch and Julie:
We arrive in Atlanta Monday evening Nov. 20 about 8:30 pm (on one paper is listed 8:22 pm, on another 8:40 pm - it's a Delta flight from JFK). Would you be able to either (1) meet us at the airport with my car, or (2), leave my car parked for me in some specified place with the key locked in it? - I have a key with me. Please send me an email with possibilities. Thanks!

Aim Accomplished in Tiraspol

Driver Serghei is a good story teller. Among his stories are a number of accounts of silly policemen. Most policemen here are reportedly corrupt, and frequently try to take advantage of the citizenry, as well as foreigners, often seeking bribes by threatening a fine or arrest. Remember that driver Serghei is the one who joked that he never uses toothpaste on Thursdays because Thursday is Transnistria day, and the Transnistrian cops like to check him for drunkenness by smelling his breath. He also told of the time some policeman stopped and questioned him without justification, in a way that threatened a fine, until Serghei asked the policeman's name. “What?” “Your name, please.” “What is this? You don't need my name! Blah, blah, blah, you can go.”

Well, on Tuesday Nathan and I were walking in the center, and I stopped to take a picture of the statue of Stephan-cel-Mare (Stephen the Great). Turning and walking away from taking the shot, we were stopped by a policeman. Authoritarian tone, in Russian: “What are you photographing?” “Oh, I was just taking a picture of Stephan-cel-Mare” (pointing to the statue). Of course he doesn't understand my English, but certainly understood the name, and my pointed finger. “Blah blah blah more authoritarian tone blah blah blah! Pasaporta i visa!” So we showed him our passports, open to the page with our visas. He saw the line on my visa that said where it was issued, but could only read the city name, not “Issued in.” So pointing to me he asked, “From Vashington DC?” Off to the side, Nathan said with a smile, “Yeah, we work for the President.” I don't think the cop caught that. I said, “Nyet. Visa, Washington DC.” “Ah, da, visa.” He gets out a little booklet and begins to write our names down from our passports. So I lift my camera to chest level, with the flip screen turned so I can see in it, and take a shot of his badge and badge number. “Blah-Blah! Blah blah blah blah blah!” I understood only some of this section of blahs, but he was asking if I just took a picture of him (and if so, that I should not). Me: “Nyet,” and then I touched his badge with my finger. “BLAH Blah blah blah blah!” He began making demands and pointing to my camera, kind of motioning to himself some of the time. Clearly he wanted the camera, wanted the picture deleted, etc. I was not about to turn over my camera in any case, and the language barrier was my additional defense. He had no idea whether we could understand the demands or not, and he had no right to forcefully take the camera from my hand. So he finished writing down our names and let us go. We restrained our laughter until we got some 20-30 feet away, but he may still have heard us. I'm glad we've got better police forces in America.

(enlarging the picture on my computer brings the badge number 0122 clearly into view)

Tuesday evening was the Bible study at the church meeting place. Thanks to a friend back home in Georgia, who found my notes on wine and drunkenness in a pretty unlikely place, and emailed the files to me, I was finally ready to teach a lesson on this needed topic here. There is a problem of occasional drunkenness of one guy within the church here, and I wanted to put the pressure on him, and reinforce the thoughts of others on drunkenness. I made sure that afternoon that he would be present, and was glad to see him there that night. The discussion went well.

Yesterday (Wed) we were in Balti as usual. The ladies had asked recently if we would simply answer questions in our sessions with them, but on this third time since that request they had no specific questions and were expecting a lesson of our choosing. I used some notes I had with me on “Three Biblical Women,” a study of good characteristics of Moses' mother, Dorcas, and Priscilla. Especially good that day though, was that Dora, the lady who just over a week ago was upset at Serghei, Vyera, and the church there, and who said she would not be back, was back after all, seemed to enjoy the study and general comaraderie (sp?), and afterward asked if Nathan and I would pose for a picture with her. Very good.

Last evening we stopped by the hospital to see Valerii. Nathan has spent a little more time there than I, playing chess with him. Just about every time he or us are there, we get involved in Biblical discussions with the several other men in the same room. One day Valerii told us in Russian for all present to hear, while pointing to one of them, “This man doesn't believe in God. What should we tell him?” So we started talking. Anyway, last evening was another night of such discussion, this time with a patient of unspecified religious affiliation (apparently not Orthodox), but who asked us many questions about our faith, until finally we had to go due to other commitments.

Today being Thursday, the two Sergheis picked us up at 7:45, and we headed to Tiraspol. Serghei Sergheiovich used most of the time today to translate his latest letter to Ken G. (American inst. brother), and there followed much discussion among the Christians present from Tiraspol and Benderi. Nathan and I had seen the letter the day before, and had to laugh at Serghei's first line, in response to Ken's lengthy letter wherein Ken said nothing helpful and failed to respond to Serghei's concerns. Serghei's new letter began:

Dear Ken,
Thank you for sending me such a long letter.

Maybe you had to be there, or maybe not, or maybe you have to know Serghei, or maybe not, but we laughed a lot.

After the discussion wound down some, Sasha asked if I could finish up my thoughts previously presented on the work of the church, which I had been very much wanting to do, and today was my last day to be able to do so with Christians from both churches present. It was a quick version, summarizing previous thoughts on congregational works approved by the NT text, and then dealing with the difference between aids for those things and additions to those things, and in particular, common meals and church kitchens. Even though brief, as we needed to leave before too long, I think it was sufficient, and they agreed with my teaching. Since Sasha and Ina assemble with the Benderi church each Sunday, and since we will not be here another Thursday (but still two Sundays), we had to say goodbye to these two today. It's been good to meet them.

(some of those present in Tiraspol today. left to right: unknown name; Vyera, whose home is used for a meeting place; Peter, a Soviet army veteran; Sasha, from Benderi)

Tonight Nathan and I prepared dinner for Serghei Sergheiovich, his wife Anna and daughter Viki (Viktoria), and for Valentina, the wife of the hospital patient Valerii. Cooking styles differ, and there are some unusual eating patterns in some of those present. Not everybody ate everything (some ate only one thing), but 2 out of 4 things were commended by one person or more! So it's hard to feed some people. It was still a good evening. Nathan and I walked out with our guests, to walk Valentina home. Serghei and Anna started walking in one direction, and the three of us in the other direction, and little Viki just stood still in the middle, watching we three walk away. I ran back and quickly got this shot. :) She, by the way, speaks toddler Russian and toddler English.

Our time here is coming to a rapid conclusion. Tomorrow we go to Balti; tomorrow night a study at the church meeting place; on Saturday, we use a free day to drive to Odessa in the Ukraine; Sunday Nathan goes to Balti and I to Tiraspol; and then after the evening assembly in Chisinau, Nathan and I head south to Turkey in the rental car we'll pick up tomorrow afternoon. Destinations: Troas, Pergamum, Ephesus, Miletus, and as time allows, Laodicea, Antioch, Iconium, etc. We won't make it to all the places I'd like to see. I hope we'll be able to post from Turkey. If not, at least I'll try to send a quick email somehow to a few. We'll return from Turkey on the following Saturday, meet with the saints in these churches one last time on Sunday, and fly home on Monday Nov. 20. Arrival home in WR should be about 10:30 that night. For now, I'm gonna say if a few of you nightowls wanted to be there that late at night, we'd be glad to see you. For a little while. :)

Benderi, Snow, and Emigration

I last left you with notice that we would go the following morning (Thursday) to Benderi, to meet in the flat of Ina, one of the women in the church there, who sees the problems in the Benderi church, and had invited any and all of the other members to come meet with her and us. We learned that she had been widely and strongly criticized within the Benderi church again on the latest Sunday, for asking how the treasury was being used. She defended her actions by appealing to the passages I had previously discussed with her (which she had worried she would not be able to present well, and that was the reason for the planned meeting for Thursday morning). Well, she apparently did it well afterall :), because Benderi Serghei finally admitted that she had raised the question properly. Of course much is still unresolved, but that is perhaps some degree of progress.

We (Driver Serghei, Serghei Sergheiovich, Nathan, and I) arrived in Benderi at Ina's flat Thursday morning to find that none who had opposed her came to this meeting. Sasha was there, as well as three of the other women who have attended the normal Thursday studies that Serghei Sergheiovich leads in Tiraspol, and which we have been helping teach while we are here.

(From left: Nathan, Sasha, driver Serghei [barely visible], Serghei Sergheiovich, the 3 women whose names I don't know, and Ina)

So Serghei used most of the time to translate for them a letter he recently received from Ken G., the American institutional brother who has been working with those churches once or twice a year. These brethren were not pleased by Ken G.'s letter, but that is not new. I also talked with them for a few minutes, dealing with one of Ken's arguments: that there is no distinction between church action and individual action. We hope we left them with good counsel and encouragement. We should see them again at the regular Thursday study in Tiraspol.

Friday morning brought us another trip to Balti with driver Serghei. The ladies there wanted our thoughts related to scripture on the subject of children (both grown and not grown) and their relationship to their parents; what kind of respect, what kind of obedience, what expectations parents can have from children.

(yet another picture of Vyera, our favorite lady in Balti)

We got back to Chisinau just in time to collect our thoughts and finalize our notes before our three o'clock appointment with the two Christina's, the college English students who began studying with us a couple of weeks ago. But they never showed up. I just found out today that they had a seminar that day, which they had not expected.

Friday evening was the regular gathering at the church meeting place. Nathan took the chair that night, discussing a question previously asked by Boris (Serghei Sergheiovich's Baptist father-in-law) about blasphemy of the Holy Spirit. Part of Nathan's response was Acts 7 and Stephen's statement about the Jews always resisting the Holy Spirit. From this, Boris wanted to know about "uncircumcised ears." Another question we both responded to concerned free will and God hardening hearts.

On Saturday, I went with Nathan to a nearby park area, where also is a horse training/riding area which Nathan had happened across a couple days before. We finally found the girl he had met earlier, who speaks English, and who arranged for Nathan to do some riding. It's new riding for him though. Western cowboy riding and British nobleman riding ain't exactly the same. He's learning some new things though, even some things useful for his own riding. Anyway, I went along to take pics. The girl offered for me to ride also, but it was already time for me to be leaving for an appointment with Dennis, with whom I went downtown, and among other things accomplished, I bought a scarf. In preparation and packing for this trip, I poorly estimated when cold weather would hit this part of the world, and I learned in the Czech Republic just how much a simple scarf does to keep heat inside your coat when you're outside for more than just walking to your heated car. Anyway, found a scarf at an open market for 35 lei, 3 dollars.

Serghei Sergheiovich has been sick these past several days (but is doing much better today), so neither of us had his company on Sunday. Nathan headed off north with driver Serghei to Balti to speak there Sunday morning, and I and Dennis were driven by Ivan, a friend of Serghei Sergheiovich, to Tiraspol, Serghei having suggested that Dennis accompany me to translate.

Nathan and driver Serghei never made it to Balti. It was a snowy morning as they drove north from Chisinau. It was slow going on the snow covered roads, and finally they came to one hill where many cars were having much difficulty. They eventually made it to the top of the hill, but the snow was worse beyond, and they were already far behind schedule. They might have made it all the way to Balti, but a timely return for the evening Chisinau assembly was increasingly doubtful. So they elected to turn around, and await their turn to descend the hill they had ascended, as car by car slowly went down, most with locked tires and bumping off curbs.

The roads to the southeast from Chisinau gave Dennis and me, and our driver Ivan, no trouble at all, with just a thin layer of snow that didn't even cover the whole roadway. But we had our own problem that could prevent us from reaching the assembly in Tiraspol. Dennis coming as translator was a last minute solution, and the law demands special papers for a minor to be taken across borders without being accompanied by relatives. So we didn't know if the border guards would raise the issue or not, and Serghei Sergheiovich had warned the brethren in Tiraspol that we might now show up. Thankfully, the guards let us pass.

The previous two Sundays I, or any of us, had been in Tiraspol, I had seen none of the male members in attendance (out of town on the weekend, busy with other things in town, etc.). We arrived, and only two women but three men were there! It was good to see the men there, but this is a subject needing to be addressed everywhere here. It's just that there are many subjects needing to be addressed, and you can only do so many. I wish I were here for another month or two. I asked the men if any would lead one of the prayers...they each declined, not feeling “ready.” One said he would another time, so I asked him if he would on this coming Sunday, and he agreed. I will hold him to that! Anyway, Dennis did a good job with translation, which he has just begun in these past few weeks. He has the potential to be very useful in the work here in various ways...if he will remain and not move to Canada as is the current plan.

This in fact touches on a big problem for the church here in Chisinau, and for the ability of Serghei Sergheiovich to help in the other cities. There are not men to speak of in the church in Balti, and the women lack the maturity to lead things in the church there. Serghei has been traveling to meet with them on Sunday mornings. In addition to that, three weeks ago he was given the opportunity to regularly speak in the Tiraspol church as well, where there also is no good leader, and where good leadership and good teaching is very much needed. On Sunday evenings of course Serghei meets with the church here in Chisinau for their weekly assembly. And even here in the church in Chisinau, there has been little emphasis on the various men taking part in leading within the assembly. It is something Serghei wants, but I think has not known how to effectively bring about. So he does every part of the leading within the assembly (unless Americans are present to help), with the exception that driver Serghei sometimes leads a prayer, and also covers the bases when Serghei Sergheiovich is (rarely) out of the country.

In recent days, driver Serghei has agreed to speak every other week in Balti, and on the other weeks in Tiraspol, to cover what will be left if Serghei Sergheiovich splits his Sunday mornings between those same two cities. That's a big step. And Dennis, since I have been working with him, has begun song leading and prayer leading, and I may yet get a little more out of him.

Sadly though, these two who are closest to being very useful here for Serghei Sergheiovich and for the work generally - Dennis and driver Serghei - may both be moving to the West. Dennis has plans to move to live with his father in Canada, and driver Serghei has plans to move to the States. They are only waiting for the approval of the American and Canadian governments, respectively. Pray that these two governments deny approval!

Sunday evening we all met together in Chisinau for their weekly assembly. Nathan and I both spoke. Afterward we were both able to enjoy some time in the flat of Serghei's parents (his mother is a Christian), which they share with Serghei's sister Natasha and her two sons, Dennis and Artiom. We have had little opportunity on this trip, but it is always nice to be able to visit with these people in their homes, and receive their hospitality.

Which reminds me...I found chili powder, and I planned to make chili for a group to have over before we leave. That is, until I found out today that some will not eat anything spicy (and what's the point of introducing people to American chili, if you have to make it totally bland?), and one will not eat after 6 pm. That's the second meal that's been nixed by personal preferences here (the other preference was no meat and bread in the same meal). So I'm running out of time, and I'm getting discouraged with this, and may just offer to take them out to eat. :)

Today I spoke again at the university, but not on any literary theme. Anna invited me to come and just talk with the students, so I chose to ask them questions this time, about Moldovan culture. They were much more motivated to speak up than last time when they were only given the opportunity to ask me questions, so we had good discussion. I began with Moldovan holidays, which opened the door to several ways of addressing religion. And by the way, on that previous day, I was virtually certain of Shakespeare's first name, but felt just this tinge of doubt. Plus it'd be funny to ask. But of course, I knew it's “Fred Shakespeare.” What?

To get to the university this morning, I took a minibus. There are large, normally sized trolley buses, and then there are the minibuses. The minibuses are basically oversized vans, usually Mercedes vans since they have to endure so many kilometers every day (Mercedes does not necessarily equal luxury by the way, just quality). They run certain routes like the larger buses, but you can stop them anywhere with an outstretched arm, and get off anywhere by simply telling the driver where you want him to stop. They have a seating capacity of about 13, but their actual capacity including standing room (if you can call it standing room), is closer to 25. Somebody, I'm not sure whom but it may have been Mike Morrow, came up with a phrase that aptly describes the capacity of just about any form of East European public transportation. The capacity of any of them is “x+1.” No matter how many are already in, you can always fit one more. The downsides of the minibus are that they cost 3 lei instead of 1 lei, and a person of my height has to stand in a head-scrunched-over position as the minibus lunges through traffic. So I usually take the trolley buses instead.

This morning I awaited a minibus (fortunately the one I found was unusually empty, and I got a seat). I had my three lei ready to hand over, folded in my hand. But the minibus stopped short of me and I had to walk around a couple other people on the sidewalk to get to it, single-handedly unfolding the bills in my right hand as I did so. I boarded the minibus, handed over the bills, and as I turned to close the door I heard the driver mumble something in a “hey-what-are-you-trying-to-pull” tone of voice. I looked and he was holding out my three lei...no, two lei. Oh great, what happened to my other lei?? Did I even have another one on me? About that time, a man from outside the minibus opened the door, and handed me my third lei. I must have dropped it while unfolding them, preparing to board. I said a grateful “Spasibo!” to the guy and handed that third lei to the driver, and took my seat. I was happy, but also pretty surprised, that a stranger went to the trouble to do that. Would not have expected it here.

One other incident...
While walking down the street a week ago with Nathan and Dennis, there was a manhole cover in the sidewalk, in my path. I hardly even noticed it, since, to the casual eye, it seemed to be perfectly and firmly in place. As my left foot descended on it, all my weight was shifting to it and away from my right foot. And the cover immediately spun 90 degrees vertical. My leg, with the whole weight of my body on it, fell at a rapid rate until I was able to stop the descent with my hand on the sidewalk! The picture is a partial re-enactment. Nathan had his own experience with a shifty manhole cover, but not nearly as entertaining. If you come over here, be wary of manholes and their covers.

A Couple of Easy Days

Well, I got no takers on answering my latest trivia question (update: To correct myself, I did get one answer, and a correct answer at that...see in comments below). Nevertheless, if you're interested in the arts, and you visit the Russian-dominated Transnistrian city of Tiraspol, you can enter the beautiful theater there and watch the play, “I Don't Want to Live in Amerika.”

repeat from a comment below: Thanks for all the food suggestions! The lack of an oven is somewhat limiting, and my lack of cooking experience is equally limiting. Fried chicken and mashed potatoes - and apple pie - sound exactly right. Except the one time I tried frying chicken it was a disaster, and it would take quite a bit of practice to get pie crust done well. Pot roast also a very good idea...and i can do a great one at home in a crock pot (please discount the one at the WR potluck last year!)...not too sure about me and a stovetop pot roast though, seeing as I'll be representing America! I'm leaning toward chili (it's cool weather here). Besides pickles and crackers, what might you serve alongside chili? Will let you know when I decide. For the time being, Nathan requests anyone with a rice pudding recipe to send it to us. Thx!

Well, so far this week has been pretty easy. Monday of course was our Day of Rest. Tuesday we only had an appointment at the church meeting place, at which time whomever of the Christians as have time meet together for study/discussion. And today our only work was a trip to Balti.

(a hot dog we bought on the street: topped with ketchup, mayonnaise, and shredded carrots. Ya know, once you open your mind to some things, they're actually kinda good:)

Since we had most of Tuesday free, we used the time to get some things done around town, and since school is out this week, we had Dennis along for translation in places where no English was spoken. First was a stop at the hospital to see Valerii, a Christian here who is already missing one leg from the knee down, and gangreene has infected his other foot also, necessitating the removal of the little toe and big toe. We arrived at his room just 30 minutes after he returned from surgery. Seems that things went well, although due to weakness of heart, they were not able to fully anesthetise the area. The doctor also did some work on his veins to restore blood flow to his remaining leg, and Valerii showed us that his leg is now warm, for the first time in (I think) months. He now has hope that with crutches he can be mobile and get outside again. Except for wheelchair trips to the doctor or to the assemblies here, he apparently hasn't been outside in several months. We asked (through translation of course) if he needed anything from the store and he requested grapefruit, cottage cheese, and water. We told him we'd return with the goods later in the day.

(following are some pics I took during a walk to the center this evening; at right, evening falls in the park)

Nathan, Dennis, and I then headed downtown to finish our investigation of options for the trip to Turkey. First stop was the car rental agency I had contacted before leaving the States. Got a price on a diesel Ford Fusion (I believe it's smaller and different than the American version). Turns out the “unlimited kilometers” I had been promised was only for driving within Moldova. Price is still doable though. Then we got an air fare quote to see if we could beat what Nathan found a few days ago; we missed the earlier price by one Euro. Then checked buses to Turkey. Turns out that the bus lines shut down their routes to Turkey this late in the year. Happy about that. And because of the few flights going between here and Istanbul, we can get there as soon or even sooner by car. We're pretty much decided on renting here and driving.

Got a very late lunch in the center, and then it was time to get a haircut. Had dreaded this. Got it cut in Starkville last minute to make it last as long as possible. Thankfully, Dennis was with us and at least I could give some instruction. And actually, it looks pretty much like my normal haircuts, though I would have preferred a little more cut off. Finished our 5 hour trip to town by stopping by the hospital again to drop off the food items for Valerii.

Then last night was our Tuesday night study at the church meeting place. Only a few were present, so I held off on my planned study, and answered a question Serghei Sergheiovich's father-in-law had about translations and the reasons for their differences. The rest of the time, Serghei had Nathan and me teach them some new songs, which he again recorded as per the procedure previously described.

(Stephen the Great, ruler of Moldova from 1457 to 1504; statesman and military tactician; defended Moldova against the Ottoman invasion, building churches or monasteries in thanks to God after each victory)

Today we were in Balti, where I answered questions about how to deal with one who is not listening to counsel and admonition. This grows out of the decision and announcement that Serghei made a couple of weeks ago, that he would no longer give financial assistance to the ladies there unless it were a dire situation (see Oct. 16 entry, “Settling Into Moldova”). On Sunday of this week, one of the ladies about whom Serghei had worried that material help might be a central motivator asked for help again. When she was answered in the negative, she became upset and said she would not be back. Thus the question in Balti today.

(intersection of Pushkin St. and
Stephen-the-Great; government building in background)

Tomorrow morning should be interesting. I mentioned last week that one of the ladies from the Benderi congregation would be inviting all those of the Benderi congregation to come to her flat this week to hear some discussion on the problems of institutionalism, power centers within the congregation, and on what is going on in that congregation (see Oct. 26 entry, “Developments in Tiraspol/Benderi”). Then on Sunday there were some developments within the Benderi congregation, of which I am as of yet unclear, but will find out on the way in the morning as we drive to Benderi for that meeting. I see obstacles to reaching very many: there appears to be in a number of them a desire to accept many things if they can just keep what American money has bought them, a very nice building, clothing, and big meals bought and paid for. But we will see what can be accomplished, and hope that a number will come.

Concordance Results, etc.

Answer to the previous trivia question:

Being the ill-informed guys we are concerning the works of Shakespeare, Nathan and I were both amused that we had been invited to lecture university students on the famous playwright. So it was pretty funny to both of us, as we headed off to do the lecture, that I had enough slim shadow of a doubt in my mind that I asked him, “Hey, what was Shakespeare's first name?” We further imagined the situation had we stood before the class, talking about, for example, Howard Shakespeare. Well, anyway, only one of you (brer Jeff) committed to the correct answer. Several of the rest of you fell for my primary decoy answer concerning misplaced lecture notes. :) And to John L.: correct, that only a real occurrence might have inspired answer #3. To excuse him though, it was when he was in perhaps the second grade, and I think asked by his teacher, and apparently also by his older sister.

New question:

What play is currently showing in the Tiraspol theater, over in Russian dominated Transnistria?

1. I Don't Want to Live in Amerika

2. Earnest Goes to Siberia

3. The Taming of the Amerikan

4. Capitalist Pig in Moscow

Friday morning we were off to Balti, to see the results of the concordance exercise I had given the ladies there. I was looking forward to it, having heard that parting word from one of them two days before, “Thanks for giving us this work to do.” Vyera met us outside as she often does, and warned us that it might be a small group today. “The heat just got turned on in Balti today, so it seems some of them didn't want to leave their warm homes.” (more about heat in moment; and pictured at left is Vyera, very likeable lady) We got inside and only one other lady was present – the one who had thanked me for giving them the work. Another lady came late, but she is one who had not been present the day I gave them the work. I was disappointed, and also worried that I had been unwise in designing the task. Bummer.

Well, we discussed what these two ladies had found, and a little more about how to use the concordances, and headed back to Chisinau. On Sunday, I was in Tiraspol so I didn't get to see what happened in Balti that day, but Nathan and first Serghei were there. They said that several of the ladies absent on Friday were there and telling things about what they found in their concordance study, so I was much relieved. Apparently the heat really was the contributing factor to their absence on Friday.

The heat for the majority of people here is produced in a few central locations through the city, and is in the form of heated water. The water is pumped throughout the city, underground, into the buildings, and then through radiators in the various rooms of each flat. Friday was the day that Balti decided to start heating and pumping water. Here in Chisinau we still await such a decision. Since the people are poor, they tend to prefer enduring the cold longer, rather than to pay for heat, so the city holds off until it's “cold enough.” We've had one hard freeze, and daytime temps have been 50s and 60s mostly, maybe some in the 40s.

And a word about the Sergheis. I don't prefer calling them 1^st and 2^nd Serghei, and then there is the less than ideal teacher in Benderi, a third Serghei. Henceforth, I will name them differently.

Serghei Corcimaru is the man here teaching and preaching, who is responsible for nearly all the growth that has happened here. Converted in Moscow during his university studies, he then moved back home to Moldova and started teaching, thus reaching the others. He's the one I met 7 years ago. I will henceforth call him Serghei Sergheiovich, as per Russian naming. Middle names in Russian are a form of the child's father's name, and as it happens, Serghei's father is also named Serghei; thus he is Serghei Sergheiovich.

Then there is our driver, Serghei, a member of the church here who has been driving us to Balti and sometimes to Transnistria in his cargo van. I will call him driver Serghei.

And lastly, there is Serghei in the Transnistrian city of Benderi, who is less than cooperative with the Christians there. He will continue to be Benderi Serghei.

Saturday I was invited by Natasha (Serghei Sergheiovich's sister) to go with her and her son Dennis to the open market to find some clothes for him. They found what they needed, and I found a hat to keep my head dry when it's raining. Ten bucks, I was happy.

Meanwhile, Nathan was going with Serghei Sergheiovich to take Valerii to the hospital for a surgery to happen this week. He is the one I mentioned in one of my first blog posts back on about October 5. He will have two toes to his remaining foot removed, due to gangreene. I went later in the day to visit him, Dennis coming also to translate, and Nathan returning with us to show me where he was in the building. The hospital was a dreary looking place, and the food looked worse. But Valerii (on the right) had food that Serghei Sergheiovich had given him that morning, so he turned down the offer of ???? that the nurse offered. The guy on the left was friendly and asked us some spiritually oriented questions, but wasn't interested in pursuing any study.

On Sunday, Driver Serghei took me to Tiraspol to lead the assembly there, while Nathan and Serghei Sergheiovich went to Balti. I spoke to the church in Tiraspol (five present) about the work of the church, and planned to discuss related ideas during the discussion period that would follow. During my lesson though, there was much getting up and returning, answering of cell phones, etc. At the end of the assembly, one lady explained that her building had flooded that morning, and as a result the discussion period was eliminated. Hopefully I'll get to cover that material on another visit soon.

That afternoon here in Chisinau, I presented the same material, and did get to cover the additional material. It went quite well I thought, and they understood the points very well and quickly.

Today has been our “Day of Rest.” Nathan and I both went to town separately, partly exploring, partly shopping. I was searching for Sun City, reportedly the biggest grocery store in town. They're usually pretty small here. I happened across a different grocery store in the center that was pretty good, and its upper floors are surely the mall I had been told about. But this wasn't the part of town where I had been told to look for Sun City, so I went on the area to which I'd been directed. I had my doubts about the area, and sure enough, it was all embassies and hotels. Oh well, I'll maybe find it later. For the moment, I headed back to the one I had found by mistake to buy my day's groceries. Approaching it from a different direction, I saw a huge sign on the building. “Sun City.” Turns out also that the whole building, grocery store plus mall, is “Sun City.”

While I was exploring the mall, I saw a shop that sells leather coats. I've wanted a good leather coat for a long time, but have always been unwilling to pay the prices in the States. So I thought I'd check this store out. Really good looking coats, and sleeves sufficiently long...usually it's very difficult for me to find good length. Checked the prices: 390, 450...Wow! At 13 lei to the dollar, I figured quickly that that's less than $50! Started trying them on. While I had one on, the girl showed the price tag, and said “price in American dollars.” Rats. Oh well.

This afternoon we met Driver Serghei's wife Irina at the church meeting place, where she is teaching children. She got the idea to find kids in the neighborhood of the meeting place whose parents would appreciate something for their kids to do in the afternoon, and who have no one at home with them, and to teach them five days a week, plus Sundays. We sat in on her lessons today, and enjoyed watching her teach the 5 kids present, one of them Natasha's younger son, Artiom. Artiom is a clown, and always loves the camera, as you can see in the picture. Irina taught them about some of Jesus' miracles, and then had them memorize John 20:30. Dennis (at far right) was there to translate for Nathan and me.

Finally, if you didn't yet notice the brief post I made early this morning, about food suggestions, please scroll down just a bit more and take note. :)

Two Questions

Just a quick post here, a full one will be posted later today (with the previous trivia questioned answered).

1) I'm taking suggestions (actually requesting help) on what typically American meal we should prepare for a few of the Moldovans. Restriction: It can't be something like hamburgers that includes both bread and meat - due to the peculiarities of a couple of people involved. Bobbie, you might let me know if there are any meals you already prepared for them when you were here.

2) What cartoon character did the clothes on my chair look like when I woke up this morning?

All for now. Gotta run.

Developments in Tiraspol/Benderi

The first of several trivia questions in this and following posts:

What did I ask Nathan as we were leaving to go present the Shakespeare Lecture?

1. What? Didn't you get directions?

2. Hey, what was Shakespeare's first name?

3. Nathan...why is your shirt tucked into your underwear?

4. Uh oh...do you know where I put my lecture notes?

Post your guesses below!

So, the night before the Shakespeare lecture, Serghei's wife Anna told us that we would also be meeting the department head, who allows these lectures by Anna's Christian friends to take place in the university classroom. She further said that we would need to bring some English books as a gift for the woman, and that since we had no way of knowing that ahead of time, that she was already prepared to bring two books she had been given by Americans, she would give them to us, and we could present them to the department head. In the end, I had one somewhat suitable English book with me, with which I could easily part, so we were able to convince Anna to keep the better of the two books she was going to provide.

We enjoyed presenting the lecture. I presented a summary of the play, related the biblical background of its themes, and discussed one of those themes in relation to the play and in general; Nathan then discussed a second theme. There were 40-45 second year English students, only two of which were guys. During the Q&A afterward, nearly all the questions were asked by the two guys. Several questions focused on spiritual things. A few examples: Must we show mercy (a theme of the play) to those who oppose us? What religion are Nathan and I? Were there denominations in the first century? (-in response to my emphasis on the problem of denominationalism and religious division) We had good discussion and made good points. And of course there were other questions of a more general nature. After one of the girls asked our ages, one of the two guys asked her “Which one do you like more?” Also have some indication that the other guy might be willing to study with me.

Tuesday evening was a gathering at the church's meeting place, where Nathan presented a follow-up study to his Sunday morning class discussion of types in the OT.

Next day was Wednesday, which means the road trip to Balti and the women there. Just before Brace Rutledge left here, he talked to the women in Balti about personal study, and spoke to them about the use of a concordance to aid in their study. He also purchased several Russian language concordances for them. On Wednesday, I reminded them of that study and of using concordances, and then provided several words/topics to look up. I let them choose which ones they each wanted. They were to take 20 minutes or more to gather some passages, learn something new or see something interesting about their topic, and be able to tell us all what they found. Well, as any of you who have been to Balti know, it can be a difficult group to keep control of, as they do like to talk. It took forever to get the idea across, to make the topic assignments, and help them get started. By this time, one of the women said that this hour study was really not enough for this, and suggested they take the concordances home, do the work, and we can pull it all together next time. Great idea! So that's the plan, and we go there again tomorrow to see what they have found. As we were winding up on Tuesday, one of the women told me, “Thanks for giving us this work to do.” Yes! That made me feel good. And thanks to Brace for introducing them to the concordance.

Wednesday evening Natasha and son Dennis ate supper with us. I had last minute bought something that looked like steaks to cook, tomatoes to do my Mom's broiled tomatoes, potatoes to boil, and bread. Got home and remembered I can't broil the tomatoes because our stove's oven doesn't work (doesn't even have a door). But I tried something new with them, and it actually turned out really good, and similar taste to what I wanted anyway. Potatoes were good (Nathan's work), except he didn't know to put salt in (but that was easily fixed on our plates), and having potatoes with the peeling was a bit new for Natasha. Then the beef. Found out when Dennis read the label that it was veal. Cool! But how to cook them? No grill, so I just did them in a teflon skillet. Probably not long enough. Or something. I dunno. They looked like they might be done, so we served everything up. As far as rare, medium, or well -done is concerned they were about right. But not very tender. In fact not even a little tender. “Really hard to chew” would be close to the right phrase. We all ate some anyway. At one point, Dennis picked his up with both hands, and tug-bit a hunk out of it. It was sometime near that point in the meal when he looked at me and said, “Not the best meat I ever had.” Well, we all enjoyed the company at least. And the other dishes were good. When they were leaving, Natasha asked for a toothpick like Dennis had, and walking out the door, said “I go outside, and I will continue to eat meat.”

(At left, a park in the city center; at right, the building where we live)

THIS MORNING: TIRASPOL/BENDERI

Nathan and I were prepared with material for questions previously asked when we met with Christians in Tiraspol this morning, several from the Tiraspol church, and three from the Benderi church (both established by inst. brethren). But as soon as everyone was seated, two began relating events from the Benderi church; that one of the them, an older lady, had asked what the collection money was being spent on, and had been told that this information was only the business of the person who had been appointed to take care of the money, that the members had no right to ask such questions, that the preacher there (yet another Serghei) was more mature and knew the justifications for however it is being spent, and that this is sufficient. After more questioning, in particular as to why money wasn't being given to those of the church who are in need, the answer was that the money wasn't being spent on this because it was rather being spent on refreshments/tea for when the people assemble. This woman asking had then come under criticism by many of the rest in Benderi, and only one spoke up to defend her (Sasha, also present this morning).

Serghei Corcimaru responded to some of this and to other important matters, and I discussed the openness of church decision making in the NT church (Acts 6, 15); that churches, not select individuals, were responsible for sending moneys for 1^st century purposes; that Paul took measures to handle money honorably in the sight of men; and finally, that such refreshments are not part of the work of the church in the first place. The woman appreciated these points, and asked what they should do, how to handle the situation they are in. Since “Benderi Serghei” clearly will not listen, I suggested she make efforts to share these things with the others. When she said she didn't think she would be able to present it well, I offered for Serghei and I to go with her. So she is planning to invite any and all from the Benderi church to her flat next week, with us there to discuss these things with them. I ask your prayers, and welcome any suggestions.

Lenin, Stalin, and Shakespeare

Chisinau, and especially Transnistria, still have shadows of the communist era. On Saturday morning Nathan and I roamed around the downtown area, and came across the monument pictured here. I don't know yet what the inscription says, but the third word is clearly a reference to Lenin. Farther on, back between some buildings in the center of town, we saw a statue in disrepair that looks to me to surely be Stalin, though it seems he was discredited by later communists, and would not be represented in public in the years since. Am I right? Am I even right that the statue is Stalin?? I'll have to work on that later.

But it's when you enter Transnistria that you really see the Soviet era propaganda. I'm not sure yet what this sign in Benderi says, but notice the hammer and sickle at the top. The third photo shows a huge propaganda monument in the middle of a Benderi traffic circle, that speaks of progress, hope, hard work, etc. Another large sign has three large medallions featuring “CCCP” (USSR) and also the hammer and sickle repeatedly. In Transnistria, these images are more than just shadows of the past.

Serghei, Nathan, and I had a good discussion/study with Zhenya (Eugene, 30ish or less) Saturday at noon, that lasted 3 hours. He has investigated a number of religious groups, and at times felt at home with some, but is still searching. Lately he has been associating with the Christians here. He had several questions, and seemed to be satisfied with our answers for the most part. From Serghei, it sounds like Zhenya, for the moment, is just lacking the decisiveness to commit.

On Sunday, Nathan preached in Balti, with Second Serghei teaching. Serghei Corcimaru and I went to Tiraspol in the morning, where Serghei directed the assembly. This is the church established by institutional brethren, but which are displeased with the man supposedly preaching for them. Several were absent, but Sasha from Benderi came to join us and those present. I preached in both Tiraspol and in Chisinau, with Nathan teaching a study period in Chisinau. In both Tiraspol and Chisinau I preached on the need for involvement by all in the work and assemblies of the church. It's a much needed topic here, and one that Serghei requested even before I came. I've seen a little fruit from this effort already. I hope I will see considerably more.

Today was our “Day of Rest,” which means we were able last week to know we would have time today for an appointment with the two college girls who initially wanted to speak with us for English language improvement. One of them at least, is sincerely interested in learning why we believe in the Bible and in God – though this may be a mere academic interest as I sometimes found in the Czech Republic. At any rate, we studied for about an hour and a half...and covered what I might cover in the States in about 25 to 30 minutes. Their English skills are not so developed yet, which makes for slow going. I spoke with them about the problem of sin (Gen 1-3) to indicate the need for a Savior to come, and then started in with the OT prophecies, having hoped to get into typology a little bit. We didn't even finish the few basic prophetic passages I had in mind. But we have another appointment for Friday, and even if we don't get very far before our departure, I think it might be far enough for her to want to start meeting with Serghei. The girls are both named Christina, and the picture was made at our door just before they left today.

Most of the rest of the day was spent in preparation for our lecture tomorrow at the teachers' university here in Chisinau. Serghei Corcimaru's wife Anna teaches English there, and has invited us to speak on Shakespeare, in a way that can link to Biblical principles. Quite a task I figured....especially since, as best I can remember, I have never read anything that Shakespeare ever wrote. Which is why, when she offered me some lecture topics a few months ago, I reserved the topic “How the King James Version Influenced the English Language.” Unfortunately for me, someone here a few weeks previous to me (initials JMS) stole that topic and left me with the Bard! Actually, though, having investigated one play in particular, I think our efforts with Shakespeare will lead to a better link to actual Biblical teaching than the KJV lecture would have. Ever read “The Merchant of Venice”? Very entertaining trial scene, but more significantly, it looks like Shakespeare was deliberately borrowing Biblical principles concerning justice and mercy, in his story of a Jew and a Christian at court. The Jew is insisting on the full and harsh execution of justice against the Christian who is financially indebted to him, and unable to pay. Portia, as a lawyer exhorts Shylock:

“And earthly power doth then show likest God's
When mercy seasons justice. Therefore, Jew,
Though justice be thy plea, consider this,
That, in the course of justice, none of us
Should see salvation: we do pray for mercy;
And that same prayer doth teach us all to render
The deeds of mercy...”

So, Nathan and I tell the story, then academically (one cannot proselytize on campus) point out that Shakespeare was basing his story on principles found the in the scriptures of Christianity, and elaborate on that. Then take questions for 40 minutes. Wise as serpents, innocent as doves. I hope it goes well.

Transnistria, and other news

Yesterday morning (thurs.) we headed off to Transnistria, the Russian dominated region along the eastern border of Moldova. At the border, the first stop is at the Moldovan checkpoint. Another quartermile and we arrive at another checkpoint with first a few Russians, and 100 feet further to the Transnistrian guards. The Russian who checked us asked our driver, second Serghei, “What are you carrying, a load of guns?” All in jest, though he did look us over well, as they do each time. Headed on in to the Transnistrian cities of Benderi and Tiraspol (see Moldova map link at right), where the two churches established by institutional brethren are. This is the regular trip each Thursday. Driving through Benderi, we passed a police checkpoint, which are common all over both parts of Moldova: police stand at the roadside watching for which vehicles they want to direct to the side of the road for inspection. Traveling in a cargo van, we get stopped almost every time. So there in Benderi, we were stopped again. The Russian/Transnistrian (?) officer asked Serghei where we were going, pretended not to hear, and then leaned in way too close, to hear the repeated answer. He was getting close enough to smell Serghei's breath, checking for drunkeness. As we pulled away, Serghei said with a smile, “That's why on Thursdays I always do not use toothpaste.”

The situation in Benderi and Tiraspol is in a state of flux. There is an American institutional preacher who visits here, Ken G., who is the legal owner of the building just being completed in Benderi, and who according to the Christians there, dictates whatever is allowed there, and whatever decisions are made there. He is the man whom we met two weeks previous when he was visiting from America. The Christians there enjoy Serghei's studies with them each Thursday, and the native preacher supported by the Americans does not study with them. Ken G. is working to find someone to move to Transnistria, and that someone will surely be someone whom Ken G. hopes will supplant Serghei's influence there. Well, Serghei wrote Ken G., asking if he could use their building to study with the Christians in Benderi. Ken G. replied in the negative, accused Serghei of trying to buy the Benderi/Tiraspol Christians with gifts (completely unfounded), and said that there was no point discussing anything with Serghei, since debates are always fruitless and he tries to avoid fruitless endeavors. Serghei replied with an excellent letter, in which he mentioned near the end that he would share both these letters with the Benderi/Tiraspol Christians, and would share any further correspondence with them as well, including any arguments Ken G. might want to make.

So that was on the table for our study in Tiraspol (with Christians present from both cities), and we hoped to have a study either of previous questions or of the institutional issues, at their choice. In fact though, the entire time was taken with discussing the letters and their thoughts about Ken G. and how things should be. The result was that the Tiraspol Christians asked Serghei to start coming on Sundays to lead their assemblies. So Sunday morning Serghei and I will travel to Tiraspol, while Second Serghei and Nathan will travel to Balti as normal. I believe (and hope) I will be doing at least some of the teaching in Tiraspol this Sunday. Then on Sunday evening we will have the Chisinau assembly.

Thursday evening we met with several of the local Christians again, and I discussed the work of the Holy Spirit, as per their previous question. I thought it went very well, with lots of discussion.

Late yesterday evening, I had a chance to call two girls whose numbers I had been given, and who had requested the opportunity of speaking with Nathan and me and in English, for improvement in their language skills. It's sometimes funny how foreigners put things in English (as I'm sure it is when I put things in their languages). “Appointment” is not a word they learn early on. But they do learn another word indicating an occasion when people agree to meet. When I called the first one and identified myself, she said “I would like a date with you and to speak English.” Well, the four of us had the “date” this afternoon between other studies. We were hoping that we might be able to interest them in spiritual things, and at least one of them appears to have some interest. They both claim to be Orthodox, but rarely attend any services, though their parents go from time to time. During our conversation, I spoke some about what we are doing here, and about the nature of my faith. I then turned the conversation in a different direction, but shortly thereafter one of the girls brought it back to faith, saying she found this interesting and would like to know more about the reasons I believe in God. That was what I was hoping to see, so we made another appointment for Monday afternoon.

I have neglected to tell about our relocation. The flat normally occupied by Americans who visit the church here was obviously occupied by Larry and Brace when we got here, so we were staying in a flat owned by Serghei's mother-in-law. She and her daughter (Serghei's wife) lived there some years ago when they were especially poor, and the flat reflects that fact. After Larry and Brace's departure early this week, we have been able to move in to this nicer, more comfortable flat. I didn't really want to live more upscale than the average Moldovan, so I asked Serghei and he says that this flat is about the average kind of flat here in Chisinau. We have a bedroom, a living room that doubles as a second bedroom, bathroom facilities, and a kitchen (pictured). My bedroom (also pictured) is the living room bedroom. I like it better, and Nathan likes his better. Excellent!

This morning it was again a road trip, to have a study with the women in Balti. We studied Romans 12, with much discussion. So much, that I didn't really get to say everything I had wanted to say. :) But we enjoy being there, especially due to Vera, who is such an active and cheerful person. Then this afternoon was our “date” with the two girls learning English, and this evening was another gathering at the Chisinau church's meeting place. Some who had asked questions the night before were not present this evening, so instead of dealing with those issues, Serghei decided to use the time and to use us to learn some new songs they don't know here. The Russian songbook has over 400 songs, many of them translated from English. For each song we knew and they didn't, Serghei had Nathan and me sing one verse in soprano, a second verse with Nathan still soprano and me on bass, and a third with both of us singing bass. He would record this part with a digital recorder, and then we and the ones gathered all sang the song together. It seems clear we will be doing more of this.

Tomorrow, Saturday, is some time to run downtown, a study with a non-Christian at noon, Singing/Russian with Dennis at 3, and supper at Serghei and Anna's at 6.

Cluck or Moo?

Tuesday morning we were free of studies, so went by Serghei's flat for a little while at midday, discussed some things, and were able to give him a hand in installing a window. We also took a load of our laundry to a small clothes washing establishment. It's a room in the half-exposed basement of a panelak apartment building several blocks away. The room is maybe about 12'x17', with 3 or 4 washing machines, one in mid-repair. Brace and Larry recommended the place to us, largely on account of the way the lady running the place seemed to take pride in her work. Of course she didn't speak any English, and Nathan and I have only about 3 Russian words between the two of us (okay it's not quite that bad), but setting a bag of dirty laundry on the counter of a clothes washing establishment said much of what we needed to say! With hands pointed to darks and whites, then the separation of the hands, and the similarity between the Russian and Czech words for separated (I know Czech), we were able to confirm that yes we wanted colors washed separately. With a little confusion at first, we were able to understand that our clothes would be ready two days later (the inoperable washer apparently slowing them down from their normal next-day service). Her name is Daria, and we told her our names. She seems to be a nice woman.

We also made a stop at the grocery store. When my parents were in the Czech Republic and Mom needed ground beef, she went down to the butcher shop, waited her turn, and then did the meat grinding motion with her hands, while simultaneously saying, "Mooo-oooo." It worked. And I believe the butcher was very cooperative, as she was an attractive and dignified lady...just didn't mind being humble. Well, Nathan got her genes...at least on the first count. In the grocery store, Nathan was at a glass counter in an area similar to a deli, and was examining some items rolled in some sort of bread wrap. Neither of us could tell what kind of meat was inside. So Nathan got eye contact with the girl behind the counter, and then, with folded arms mimicking flapping wings, said, "Cluck-cluck-clu-clu-cluck" with appropriate tones, and then, "or Mooo-oooo?" Unlike Mom, Nathan's question called for the worker to also say what the animal says - and this girl was not about to do it. I wish I had had my camera ready for her facial expression. She had half a smile showing some amusement, but the rest of her expression said both "You are a nut," and also "You don't really think I'm gonna do that, do you?" We both looked at her expectantly anyway. Finally, she shifted her head a bit and then held up two fingers, meaning the second one, beef.

When evening came, there was a study at the church's meeting place for whomever wanted to come, which usually seems to be a majority of the Christians here. I had planned a certain lesson for this hour, related to the fact that Serghei does most of the leading in the assemblies here - discussing prayer needs, leading singing, choosing prayer leaders, distributing the Lord's supper, and when such as we are not around, preaching and teaching. Of course Serghei would like very much for others to be taking their part in those leadership matters and further developing themselves. So I had planned a lesson to address that need, but for last night's meeting only a few of the Christians were able to be present. So instead, I simply took questions. One was a request for a discussion of the meaning of Col. 4:16. Another was about the phrase "the last days," and when that period is. Spiritual gifts and whether the Holy Spirit might talk to us directly was another subject asked about. From that last question came a more general question about the role of the Holy Spirit today, which we will discuss tomorrow night (Thursday night) at a similar meeting of the Christians.

Just before going to that study last night, I noticed water in our flat around the bottom of the toilet, and no water pressure anywhere else. As a result of the leak, the building superintendent had apparently turned off the water for the whole building. The lady from whom we are renting this flat, a member of the church here, came over after the study, made some calls, got a temporary fix, and the water turned back on, and a repairman would come in the morning.

Then this morning (Wednesday), we were on the road at 7:45 to make the trip to Balti again to study with the women up there. Second Serghei drove us in his van as usual, and we had good conversation the whole way, the two+ hour trip passing quite quickly. We were glad to find several of the women present, especially after the announcement that Serghei had had to make on Sunday morning. I presented a lesson on Joy from Philippians 1, and they seemed to respond very well as we discussed Paul's situation and the joy and optimism hs nevertheless had, by focusing on the good things rather than on the bad. We are thinking that we will use that begining to take them through a study of Philippians, since their studies don't usually seem to cover books as a whole.

When we got home from Balti in the early afternoon, the plumber was still here, and we didn't get water until about 5:30 this evening. But everything seems to be solved now.

We were to have a study this evening with the older couple who are recent converts. But Serghei's nephew called to say that it had been cancelled (the man wasn't feeling well), and asking if he could come over for more "Russian/Singing" lessons. So that's how our evening was spent, followed by discussion of the studies on schedule for tomorrow. It should be an interesting day, but I'll save that for my next entry. :)