Ephesus

Having arrived at Selcuk/Ephesus from Troas and Assos late Tuesday night, we found a dirt road leading up a forested mountain on which to park the car and sleep, and then toured the city of Ephesus on Wednesday. We got lunch at a little Turkish restaurant in the neighboring modern town of Selcuk, eating at one of their outside tables.

Paul first visited Ephesus toward the end of his second journey, having ended a lengthy stay in Corinth, and heading east toward Jerusalem. He was accompanied presumably still by Silas and Timothy, and certainly by Aquila and Priscilla (Acts 18:18-21). He stayed briefly, perhaps only the weekend, though Aquila and Priscilla stayed and made Ephesus their home for at least the next couple of years.

Then on his third journey, Paul came to Ephesus and stayed for 2 1/2 to 3 years, teaching initially in the synagogue, then in the school of Tyrannus, until all Asia became acquainted with the gospel message (19:1-41). Here in Ephesus the seven sons of Sceva were beaten up and stripped of their clothing by an evil spirit, and also here Demetrius the silversmith riled up similar craftsmen, instigating the riot which occupied the Ephesus Theater. Demetrius' particular trade was in making silver shrines of Artemis, whose massive temple was at Ephesus; her temple is reported to have been one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

(A model of the Artemis temple, in the local museum. It is presumed that a statue of Artemis stood in the center, where you can see the roof is open so that she stood unshaded.)

Our first stop was at the remains of that temple. It was built beyond a hill, separated from the main part of the city of Ephesus by more than a mile, and today the site feels like it would have been somewhat 'out of town.' Only one column of the temple is standing, but enough ruins remain that one can see the outline of the whole structure. In the first century, the temple was 344 feet long, and 18o feet wide...four times the size of the Athenian Parthenon. Its columns were 60 feet tall, and the whole structure was made nearly entirely of marble. One can imagine the city was proud of the temple, and of Artemis, and ready to protest any defamation of it or of her. One can also imagine the great trade that existed in making and selling silver goods associated with the goddess and her temple.

(the temple ruins today; for scale, note the person standing at center left, and that he is standing closer to the camera than is the column)

To better visualize the area as a whole, you can see it all at GoogleEarth by putting latitude/longitude coordinates in the search field. For the theater at the center of Ephesus: copy and paste 37 56 27 N 27 20 32 E. For the Temple of Artemis, 37 56 58 N 27 21 49 E.

After a tour of the museum (between the temple site and the modern town of Selcuk), we headed off to the ruins of Ephesus itself. Between the parking area and the gated entrance were all kinds of souvenir shops, and every effort to make money off the tourists. One guy was selling “genuine fake watches.” Nathan remarked that it was as if they had decided to do an extreme caricature of tourist traps, a spoof of how bad they can be! But then you buy your ticket and go through the gate...

First you come to the street that connected the harbor to the Theater. Unfortunately, the harbor has silted in so that ships cannot come inland; the sea is now three miles away, but one can imagine. The Theater of course is magnificent, as are its acoustics. Nathan could stand at the top with my camera, and record as I stood at center stage and read from Acts 19 about the riot that happened in that very spot.

Then down another street leading from the Theater, one finds the facade of the Library of Celsus, built some 50 to 80 years after Paul's stay in the city. It was three stories, though the facade has only two remaining. In fact an earthquake toppled it in the 10th century, and it was only re-erected in the 1970's. Next to the Library are arched entrances to the large Agora, or market area, where the people of Ephesus bought and sold their goods. Going uphill from the library is the street of the Curetes, along which are other ancient structures: temples, homes, a brothel, shops, a public bathroom, etc.

(Above: Library of Celsus facade; to the right, entrances to the Agora. Below, the Agora; Library facade visible at left; the street from the Theater to the Library runs just outside this photo, parallel to the nearest row of columns)

But consider again the Agora (GoogleEarth 37 56 24 N 27 20 26 E). It lies next to the Library, bordered by the street that leads immediately to the Theater. It seems quite likely that silversmiths would have had their shops and done their business in the Agora, and it is reported by John McCray in the Criswell Theological Review that one archaeologist has reported locating silversmith shops there in the Agora. It then becomes quite easy to visualize Demetrius rounding up the tradesmen, the city filling with confusion as they began crying out "Great is Artemis of the Ephesians," and then the rush to the Theater just down and across the street, dragging two of Paul's Christian brothers with them as they ran (Gaius and Aristarchus). Then for two hours their voices reverberated in that Theater, “Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!”

(view from the Theater to the Agora)

Well, great she was, but only in their minds, and in the magnificence of the temple they built for her. But they are now dead, and her temple is now in scant ruins, a place for the curious like me, and for sheep to wander and graze.

And our God still stands.

Overcast Morning in Budapest (plus Turkey!)

Chisinau Moldova ceased to be our home at 6 am this morning, as we said our goodbyes to the two Sergheis, both of whom accompanied us to the airport. Various feelings about this departure, but both of us are glad for our stay in Moldova, yet also glad that we should be home in the US tonight. Right now, I'm sitting in the Budapest airport, foot propped up on the base of a large airport window wall overlooking the taxiways and runways. The sky is gray, but a few holes in the clouds hint at a sunnier afternoon.

I still have a lot to post, in particular about our travels to Turkey. Some is in this post, and more will come in the next few days, though I am not sure you all will be as interested to read this blog once we're actually back home in the States. I'll assume you are, and you don't have to correct me if you're not! :)

...but first, I'm very happy to mention this:

IT'S JUST BEEN GLORIOUS
The storied life of Marlene Smelser

As many of you know, my Dad has written a book about my Mom's life – we lost her in 2002. It's a great book (I might be less than plainly objective, but it's still a great book!). It traces her beginnings and the things that might have held her back from what she made of herself, and shows the godly woman and lady she became. Dad avoided writing as a preachy instructor, and simply told her story. It, as was her life, is filled with adventure. The main title line is a statement she made more than once in the days just before her death, and reflects her general attitude about what life can be, and more directly about her experience in particular.

The book is to be available this very week, and will be initially available through Dad and us three sons (Jeff, Scott, and I). Bookstores will have it a little later. The cost is $20, shipped without tax, though I'll add shipping cost (actual shipping amount). Feel free to contact me for placing orders, or any of us for picking up a copy in person. I'll provide more exact info in a day or so.

TURKEY

Entering the country from Malko Turnovo Bulgaria, this is the first Turkish village we came to. It was the mosque's minaret, the first I'd ever seen, that caught my attention and made me stop for a picture.

We ended up getting to see a little more than I was expecting as of the beginning of the week. In our order of travel, we saw Troas, nighttime in Assos, Ephesus, Miletus, Colosse, Laodicea, Hierapolis, Antioch of Pisidia, Pergamum, and finally Assos in the daylight. It was great!

To cross the Dardanelles, that narrow strip of water that helps join the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, we came to the town of Gelibolu. Very attractive downtown area next to the water, friendly staff in the little restaurant where we got sandwiches and sampled some eggplant and peppers, and friendly little school kids eager to talk with the Americans. And then there are the Turks who seek to make a buck from the tourists, especially I suppose from the richer western tourists. We had about 45 minutes before the ferry would take us across, so we left the car in the line at the ferry to go explore, get lunch, etc. When we returned, we saw that all the windows of our very dirty car had been cleaned, and two guys approached wanting to be paid for the job. They of course put the guilt trip on everybody, we cleaned your windows and you don't pay! We were not convinced.

Once that was cleared up, a fella selling cologne (Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, etc.) came around trying to make us his customers. We were sitting in the car with windows down waiting to board, and he comes up, speaking mainly Turkish but enough English to get the idea across. We on the other hand, hadn't shaved or bathed for two days, but/so (?) he was persistent. Very friendly, some Turkish, some English. Wouldn't take no for an answer. We finally had success in turning him away, a bit later drove on board the ferry, and before we got out of the car he was back at the window. It was now much more Turkish than English. Finally I said, smiling as I did so, “Cologne will not help us! And we don't understand what you are saying. We don't understand the words that are coming out of your mouth!” Some of you will recognize that adapted line. We enjoyed the moment, and he finally gave up.

Other people in town were very friendly to us with nothing to gain for themselves, and I'll say more about that later. An hour or so after the crossing, we were at...

Troas

Paul first visited here on the second journey, having come west past the Galatian cities, accompanied by Silas and Timothy. There he was shown the vision of the Macedonian man saying “Come over to Macedonia and help us!” There Luke joined Paul and his companions as they set out to cross the sea to Neapolis and Philippi, and the rest of Macedonia.

Paul visited again on his third journey, assembling with the saints to break bread, preaching until midnight, and raising sleepy Eutychus from the dead after his fall from the window.

Troas is divided by the little narrow road that now runs through it, with widely scattered ruins. We had hoped to find an upper room window in which to pose "asleep" for a picture, but had no luck. In the previous post is a picture of temple ruins there. From the main concentration (as best we found) of ruins, it's about a 20 minute hike to the sea, across tilled fields and through olive groves where friendly local Turks were picking olives. Then a little north along the shore is the ancient harbor. From there, Paul sailed to Neapolis and Philippi, and into there he sailed in order to assemble and break bread with the Troas church in Acts 20. The harbor now is partially filled in by silt.

(looking past the harbor site -partially hidden- across the Aegean Sea, toward Neopolis and Philippi)

ASSOS

Daylight was dimming as we left Troas, and we didn't make it to the seaside town of Assos until after dark. The city of Assos was high above the water on a hill, with nearly a cliff dropping down to its harbor, still functional today. I'll save my pics of Assos until we come back to it in daylight. But as we drove toward the top of Assos, looking for a way to head out of town to the east, the cobblestone street narrowed considerably, and as we happened to be there right at 6:30 pm, the prayer call from the minaret began. We finally came to a spot where we saw no further lane going upward, just as several muslim Turks were walking across right in front of us, who possibly (at least in our minds) looked annoyed at our presence, our headlights, and our activity at the time of their prayer call. And this is our first night in Turkey. We made a retreat downhill, and found the road headed out.

We drove a few hours that night, finally reaching Ephesus. More on that in my next post.

Turkey Is Great!

It's about midnight Tuesday night, and we just arrived at Ephesus. We're sitting in the car outside a hotel, connected to their wireless network to just let everybody know we're fine. The Turks we've met have been nothing but friendly, helpful, and cheerful.

Border crossings were very good getting here (unlike on our trip to the Ukraine on Saturday). Turkey is a really picturesque country, and we've taken lots of pictures of it for our own. Crossing the Dardanelles by ferry boat, we both entered our third continent, Asia.

(at right, leaving Europe: pulling away from the dock at Gelibolu)

Today we saw Troas, came here in the evening hours, will see Ephesus and Miletus tomorow, and will work our way back north, with a jog to the east for Colosse, Laodicea, and Hierapolis, and then see Pergamum and Assos farther north. Looks like the cities of Galatia will have to wait.

(at left, temple ruins at Troas)

We got up at 4:45 this morning, so we need sleep (actually Nathan already is), so this is going to be brief! Bye for now.

Headed South

It's 10:30 pm Sunday night, and I'm packed and just about ready to get to bed. Planning to get up and leave around 4 am headed south to Turkey. No time for a lengthy post right now. I hope to be able to post new entries from Turkey, but if you don't see any, please don't assume anything too bad! I just don't know how easy it will be to get internet access while we're traveling the way we will be traveling. I hope we can find some internet joints for web access...or even wireless outside a nice hotel.

We plan to be back here in Chisinau Saturday evening, meet with the churches on Sunday, and then fly home on Monday.

Basic Outline of the Last Three Days:

Friday morning: Balti
Friday afternoon: Picked up rental car
Friday afternoon: Didn't go to the museum
Friday evening: Study with Christians here in Chisinau
Saturday 4:45 am to 8:45 pm: Trip to Odessa, Ukraine
(stories to tell about that)
Saturday, late evening: Supper at home of members here
Sunday morning: Nathan/Balti, Me/Tiraspol (visitors in Tiraspol)
Sunday evening: Assembly here in Chisinau

Mitch and Julie:
We arrive in Atlanta Monday evening Nov. 20 about 8:30 pm (on one paper is listed 8:22 pm, on another 8:40 pm - it's a Delta flight from JFK). Would you be able to either (1) meet us at the airport with my car, or (2), leave my car parked for me in some specified place with the key locked in it? - I have a key with me. Please send me an email with possibilities. Thanks!

Aim Accomplished in Tiraspol

Driver Serghei is a good story teller. Among his stories are a number of accounts of silly policemen. Most policemen here are reportedly corrupt, and frequently try to take advantage of the citizenry, as well as foreigners, often seeking bribes by threatening a fine or arrest. Remember that driver Serghei is the one who joked that he never uses toothpaste on Thursdays because Thursday is Transnistria day, and the Transnistrian cops like to check him for drunkenness by smelling his breath. He also told of the time some policeman stopped and questioned him without justification, in a way that threatened a fine, until Serghei asked the policeman's name. “What?” “Your name, please.” “What is this? You don't need my name! Blah, blah, blah, you can go.”

Well, on Tuesday Nathan and I were walking in the center, and I stopped to take a picture of the statue of Stephan-cel-Mare (Stephen the Great). Turning and walking away from taking the shot, we were stopped by a policeman. Authoritarian tone, in Russian: “What are you photographing?” “Oh, I was just taking a picture of Stephan-cel-Mare” (pointing to the statue). Of course he doesn't understand my English, but certainly understood the name, and my pointed finger. “Blah blah blah more authoritarian tone blah blah blah! Pasaporta i visa!” So we showed him our passports, open to the page with our visas. He saw the line on my visa that said where it was issued, but could only read the city name, not “Issued in.” So pointing to me he asked, “From Vashington DC?” Off to the side, Nathan said with a smile, “Yeah, we work for the President.” I don't think the cop caught that. I said, “Nyet. Visa, Washington DC.” “Ah, da, visa.” He gets out a little booklet and begins to write our names down from our passports. So I lift my camera to chest level, with the flip screen turned so I can see in it, and take a shot of his badge and badge number. “Blah-Blah! Blah blah blah blah blah!” I understood only some of this section of blahs, but he was asking if I just took a picture of him (and if so, that I should not). Me: “Nyet,” and then I touched his badge with my finger. “BLAH Blah blah blah blah!” He began making demands and pointing to my camera, kind of motioning to himself some of the time. Clearly he wanted the camera, wanted the picture deleted, etc. I was not about to turn over my camera in any case, and the language barrier was my additional defense. He had no idea whether we could understand the demands or not, and he had no right to forcefully take the camera from my hand. So he finished writing down our names and let us go. We restrained our laughter until we got some 20-30 feet away, but he may still have heard us. I'm glad we've got better police forces in America.

(enlarging the picture on my computer brings the badge number 0122 clearly into view)

Tuesday evening was the Bible study at the church meeting place. Thanks to a friend back home in Georgia, who found my notes on wine and drunkenness in a pretty unlikely place, and emailed the files to me, I was finally ready to teach a lesson on this needed topic here. There is a problem of occasional drunkenness of one guy within the church here, and I wanted to put the pressure on him, and reinforce the thoughts of others on drunkenness. I made sure that afternoon that he would be present, and was glad to see him there that night. The discussion went well.

Yesterday (Wed) we were in Balti as usual. The ladies had asked recently if we would simply answer questions in our sessions with them, but on this third time since that request they had no specific questions and were expecting a lesson of our choosing. I used some notes I had with me on “Three Biblical Women,” a study of good characteristics of Moses' mother, Dorcas, and Priscilla. Especially good that day though, was that Dora, the lady who just over a week ago was upset at Serghei, Vyera, and the church there, and who said she would not be back, was back after all, seemed to enjoy the study and general comaraderie (sp?), and afterward asked if Nathan and I would pose for a picture with her. Very good.

Last evening we stopped by the hospital to see Valerii. Nathan has spent a little more time there than I, playing chess with him. Just about every time he or us are there, we get involved in Biblical discussions with the several other men in the same room. One day Valerii told us in Russian for all present to hear, while pointing to one of them, “This man doesn't believe in God. What should we tell him?” So we started talking. Anyway, last evening was another night of such discussion, this time with a patient of unspecified religious affiliation (apparently not Orthodox), but who asked us many questions about our faith, until finally we had to go due to other commitments.

Today being Thursday, the two Sergheis picked us up at 7:45, and we headed to Tiraspol. Serghei Sergheiovich used most of the time today to translate his latest letter to Ken G. (American inst. brother), and there followed much discussion among the Christians present from Tiraspol and Benderi. Nathan and I had seen the letter the day before, and had to laugh at Serghei's first line, in response to Ken's lengthy letter wherein Ken said nothing helpful and failed to respond to Serghei's concerns. Serghei's new letter began:

Dear Ken,
Thank you for sending me such a long letter.

Maybe you had to be there, or maybe not, or maybe you have to know Serghei, or maybe not, but we laughed a lot.

After the discussion wound down some, Sasha asked if I could finish up my thoughts previously presented on the work of the church, which I had been very much wanting to do, and today was my last day to be able to do so with Christians from both churches present. It was a quick version, summarizing previous thoughts on congregational works approved by the NT text, and then dealing with the difference between aids for those things and additions to those things, and in particular, common meals and church kitchens. Even though brief, as we needed to leave before too long, I think it was sufficient, and they agreed with my teaching. Since Sasha and Ina assemble with the Benderi church each Sunday, and since we will not be here another Thursday (but still two Sundays), we had to say goodbye to these two today. It's been good to meet them.

(some of those present in Tiraspol today. left to right: unknown name; Vyera, whose home is used for a meeting place; Peter, a Soviet army veteran; Sasha, from Benderi)

Tonight Nathan and I prepared dinner for Serghei Sergheiovich, his wife Anna and daughter Viki (Viktoria), and for Valentina, the wife of the hospital patient Valerii. Cooking styles differ, and there are some unusual eating patterns in some of those present. Not everybody ate everything (some ate only one thing), but 2 out of 4 things were commended by one person or more! So it's hard to feed some people. It was still a good evening. Nathan and I walked out with our guests, to walk Valentina home. Serghei and Anna started walking in one direction, and the three of us in the other direction, and little Viki just stood still in the middle, watching we three walk away. I ran back and quickly got this shot. :) She, by the way, speaks toddler Russian and toddler English.

Our time here is coming to a rapid conclusion. Tomorrow we go to Balti; tomorrow night a study at the church meeting place; on Saturday, we use a free day to drive to Odessa in the Ukraine; Sunday Nathan goes to Balti and I to Tiraspol; and then after the evening assembly in Chisinau, Nathan and I head south to Turkey in the rental car we'll pick up tomorrow afternoon. Destinations: Troas, Pergamum, Ephesus, Miletus, and as time allows, Laodicea, Antioch, Iconium, etc. We won't make it to all the places I'd like to see. I hope we'll be able to post from Turkey. If not, at least I'll try to send a quick email somehow to a few. We'll return from Turkey on the following Saturday, meet with the saints in these churches one last time on Sunday, and fly home on Monday Nov. 20. Arrival home in WR should be about 10:30 that night. For now, I'm gonna say if a few of you nightowls wanted to be there that late at night, we'd be glad to see you. For a little while. :)

Benderi, Snow, and Emigration

I last left you with notice that we would go the following morning (Thursday) to Benderi, to meet in the flat of Ina, one of the women in the church there, who sees the problems in the Benderi church, and had invited any and all of the other members to come meet with her and us. We learned that she had been widely and strongly criticized within the Benderi church again on the latest Sunday, for asking how the treasury was being used. She defended her actions by appealing to the passages I had previously discussed with her (which she had worried she would not be able to present well, and that was the reason for the planned meeting for Thursday morning). Well, she apparently did it well afterall :), because Benderi Serghei finally admitted that she had raised the question properly. Of course much is still unresolved, but that is perhaps some degree of progress.

We (Driver Serghei, Serghei Sergheiovich, Nathan, and I) arrived in Benderi at Ina's flat Thursday morning to find that none who had opposed her came to this meeting. Sasha was there, as well as three of the other women who have attended the normal Thursday studies that Serghei Sergheiovich leads in Tiraspol, and which we have been helping teach while we are here.

(From left: Nathan, Sasha, driver Serghei [barely visible], Serghei Sergheiovich, the 3 women whose names I don't know, and Ina)

So Serghei used most of the time to translate for them a letter he recently received from Ken G., the American institutional brother who has been working with those churches once or twice a year. These brethren were not pleased by Ken G.'s letter, but that is not new. I also talked with them for a few minutes, dealing with one of Ken's arguments: that there is no distinction between church action and individual action. We hope we left them with good counsel and encouragement. We should see them again at the regular Thursday study in Tiraspol.

Friday morning brought us another trip to Balti with driver Serghei. The ladies there wanted our thoughts related to scripture on the subject of children (both grown and not grown) and their relationship to their parents; what kind of respect, what kind of obedience, what expectations parents can have from children.

(yet another picture of Vyera, our favorite lady in Balti)

We got back to Chisinau just in time to collect our thoughts and finalize our notes before our three o'clock appointment with the two Christina's, the college English students who began studying with us a couple of weeks ago. But they never showed up. I just found out today that they had a seminar that day, which they had not expected.

Friday evening was the regular gathering at the church meeting place. Nathan took the chair that night, discussing a question previously asked by Boris (Serghei Sergheiovich's Baptist father-in-law) about blasphemy of the Holy Spirit. Part of Nathan's response was Acts 7 and Stephen's statement about the Jews always resisting the Holy Spirit. From this, Boris wanted to know about "uncircumcised ears." Another question we both responded to concerned free will and God hardening hearts.

On Saturday, I went with Nathan to a nearby park area, where also is a horse training/riding area which Nathan had happened across a couple days before. We finally found the girl he had met earlier, who speaks English, and who arranged for Nathan to do some riding. It's new riding for him though. Western cowboy riding and British nobleman riding ain't exactly the same. He's learning some new things though, even some things useful for his own riding. Anyway, I went along to take pics. The girl offered for me to ride also, but it was already time for me to be leaving for an appointment with Dennis, with whom I went downtown, and among other things accomplished, I bought a scarf. In preparation and packing for this trip, I poorly estimated when cold weather would hit this part of the world, and I learned in the Czech Republic just how much a simple scarf does to keep heat inside your coat when you're outside for more than just walking to your heated car. Anyway, found a scarf at an open market for 35 lei, 3 dollars.

Serghei Sergheiovich has been sick these past several days (but is doing much better today), so neither of us had his company on Sunday. Nathan headed off north with driver Serghei to Balti to speak there Sunday morning, and I and Dennis were driven by Ivan, a friend of Serghei Sergheiovich, to Tiraspol, Serghei having suggested that Dennis accompany me to translate.

Nathan and driver Serghei never made it to Balti. It was a snowy morning as they drove north from Chisinau. It was slow going on the snow covered roads, and finally they came to one hill where many cars were having much difficulty. They eventually made it to the top of the hill, but the snow was worse beyond, and they were already far behind schedule. They might have made it all the way to Balti, but a timely return for the evening Chisinau assembly was increasingly doubtful. So they elected to turn around, and await their turn to descend the hill they had ascended, as car by car slowly went down, most with locked tires and bumping off curbs.

The roads to the southeast from Chisinau gave Dennis and me, and our driver Ivan, no trouble at all, with just a thin layer of snow that didn't even cover the whole roadway. But we had our own problem that could prevent us from reaching the assembly in Tiraspol. Dennis coming as translator was a last minute solution, and the law demands special papers for a minor to be taken across borders without being accompanied by relatives. So we didn't know if the border guards would raise the issue or not, and Serghei Sergheiovich had warned the brethren in Tiraspol that we might now show up. Thankfully, the guards let us pass.

The previous two Sundays I, or any of us, had been in Tiraspol, I had seen none of the male members in attendance (out of town on the weekend, busy with other things in town, etc.). We arrived, and only two women but three men were there! It was good to see the men there, but this is a subject needing to be addressed everywhere here. It's just that there are many subjects needing to be addressed, and you can only do so many. I wish I were here for another month or two. I asked the men if any would lead one of the prayers...they each declined, not feeling “ready.” One said he would another time, so I asked him if he would on this coming Sunday, and he agreed. I will hold him to that! Anyway, Dennis did a good job with translation, which he has just begun in these past few weeks. He has the potential to be very useful in the work here in various ways...if he will remain and not move to Canada as is the current plan.

This in fact touches on a big problem for the church here in Chisinau, and for the ability of Serghei Sergheiovich to help in the other cities. There are not men to speak of in the church in Balti, and the women lack the maturity to lead things in the church there. Serghei has been traveling to meet with them on Sunday mornings. In addition to that, three weeks ago he was given the opportunity to regularly speak in the Tiraspol church as well, where there also is no good leader, and where good leadership and good teaching is very much needed. On Sunday evenings of course Serghei meets with the church here in Chisinau for their weekly assembly. And even here in the church in Chisinau, there has been little emphasis on the various men taking part in leading within the assembly. It is something Serghei wants, but I think has not known how to effectively bring about. So he does every part of the leading within the assembly (unless Americans are present to help), with the exception that driver Serghei sometimes leads a prayer, and also covers the bases when Serghei Sergheiovich is (rarely) out of the country.

In recent days, driver Serghei has agreed to speak every other week in Balti, and on the other weeks in Tiraspol, to cover what will be left if Serghei Sergheiovich splits his Sunday mornings between those same two cities. That's a big step. And Dennis, since I have been working with him, has begun song leading and prayer leading, and I may yet get a little more out of him.

Sadly though, these two who are closest to being very useful here for Serghei Sergheiovich and for the work generally - Dennis and driver Serghei - may both be moving to the West. Dennis has plans to move to live with his father in Canada, and driver Serghei has plans to move to the States. They are only waiting for the approval of the American and Canadian governments, respectively. Pray that these two governments deny approval!

Sunday evening we all met together in Chisinau for their weekly assembly. Nathan and I both spoke. Afterward we were both able to enjoy some time in the flat of Serghei's parents (his mother is a Christian), which they share with Serghei's sister Natasha and her two sons, Dennis and Artiom. We have had little opportunity on this trip, but it is always nice to be able to visit with these people in their homes, and receive their hospitality.

Which reminds me...I found chili powder, and I planned to make chili for a group to have over before we leave. That is, until I found out today that some will not eat anything spicy (and what's the point of introducing people to American chili, if you have to make it totally bland?), and one will not eat after 6 pm. That's the second meal that's been nixed by personal preferences here (the other preference was no meat and bread in the same meal). So I'm running out of time, and I'm getting discouraged with this, and may just offer to take them out to eat. :)

Today I spoke again at the university, but not on any literary theme. Anna invited me to come and just talk with the students, so I chose to ask them questions this time, about Moldovan culture. They were much more motivated to speak up than last time when they were only given the opportunity to ask me questions, so we had good discussion. I began with Moldovan holidays, which opened the door to several ways of addressing religion. And by the way, on that previous day, I was virtually certain of Shakespeare's first name, but felt just this tinge of doubt. Plus it'd be funny to ask. But of course, I knew it's “Fred Shakespeare.” What?

To get to the university this morning, I took a minibus. There are large, normally sized trolley buses, and then there are the minibuses. The minibuses are basically oversized vans, usually Mercedes vans since they have to endure so many kilometers every day (Mercedes does not necessarily equal luxury by the way, just quality). They run certain routes like the larger buses, but you can stop them anywhere with an outstretched arm, and get off anywhere by simply telling the driver where you want him to stop. They have a seating capacity of about 13, but their actual capacity including standing room (if you can call it standing room), is closer to 25. Somebody, I'm not sure whom but it may have been Mike Morrow, came up with a phrase that aptly describes the capacity of just about any form of East European public transportation. The capacity of any of them is “x+1.” No matter how many are already in, you can always fit one more. The downsides of the minibus are that they cost 3 lei instead of 1 lei, and a person of my height has to stand in a head-scrunched-over position as the minibus lunges through traffic. So I usually take the trolley buses instead.

This morning I awaited a minibus (fortunately the one I found was unusually empty, and I got a seat). I had my three lei ready to hand over, folded in my hand. But the minibus stopped short of me and I had to walk around a couple other people on the sidewalk to get to it, single-handedly unfolding the bills in my right hand as I did so. I boarded the minibus, handed over the bills, and as I turned to close the door I heard the driver mumble something in a “hey-what-are-you-trying-to-pull” tone of voice. I looked and he was holding out my three lei...no, two lei. Oh great, what happened to my other lei?? Did I even have another one on me? About that time, a man from outside the minibus opened the door, and handed me my third lei. I must have dropped it while unfolding them, preparing to board. I said a grateful “Spasibo!” to the guy and handed that third lei to the driver, and took my seat. I was happy, but also pretty surprised, that a stranger went to the trouble to do that. Would not have expected it here.

One other incident...
While walking down the street a week ago with Nathan and Dennis, there was a manhole cover in the sidewalk, in my path. I hardly even noticed it, since, to the casual eye, it seemed to be perfectly and firmly in place. As my left foot descended on it, all my weight was shifting to it and away from my right foot. And the cover immediately spun 90 degrees vertical. My leg, with the whole weight of my body on it, fell at a rapid rate until I was able to stop the descent with my hand on the sidewalk! The picture is a partial re-enactment. Nathan had his own experience with a shifty manhole cover, but not nearly as entertaining. If you come over here, be wary of manholes and their covers.

A Couple of Easy Days

Well, I got no takers on answering my latest trivia question (update: To correct myself, I did get one answer, and a correct answer at that...see in comments below). Nevertheless, if you're interested in the arts, and you visit the Russian-dominated Transnistrian city of Tiraspol, you can enter the beautiful theater there and watch the play, “I Don't Want to Live in Amerika.”

repeat from a comment below: Thanks for all the food suggestions! The lack of an oven is somewhat limiting, and my lack of cooking experience is equally limiting. Fried chicken and mashed potatoes - and apple pie - sound exactly right. Except the one time I tried frying chicken it was a disaster, and it would take quite a bit of practice to get pie crust done well. Pot roast also a very good idea...and i can do a great one at home in a crock pot (please discount the one at the WR potluck last year!)...not too sure about me and a stovetop pot roast though, seeing as I'll be representing America! I'm leaning toward chili (it's cool weather here). Besides pickles and crackers, what might you serve alongside chili? Will let you know when I decide. For the time being, Nathan requests anyone with a rice pudding recipe to send it to us. Thx!

Well, so far this week has been pretty easy. Monday of course was our Day of Rest. Tuesday we only had an appointment at the church meeting place, at which time whomever of the Christians as have time meet together for study/discussion. And today our only work was a trip to Balti.

(a hot dog we bought on the street: topped with ketchup, mayonnaise, and shredded carrots. Ya know, once you open your mind to some things, they're actually kinda good:)

Since we had most of Tuesday free, we used the time to get some things done around town, and since school is out this week, we had Dennis along for translation in places where no English was spoken. First was a stop at the hospital to see Valerii, a Christian here who is already missing one leg from the knee down, and gangreene has infected his other foot also, necessitating the removal of the little toe and big toe. We arrived at his room just 30 minutes after he returned from surgery. Seems that things went well, although due to weakness of heart, they were not able to fully anesthetise the area. The doctor also did some work on his veins to restore blood flow to his remaining leg, and Valerii showed us that his leg is now warm, for the first time in (I think) months. He now has hope that with crutches he can be mobile and get outside again. Except for wheelchair trips to the doctor or to the assemblies here, he apparently hasn't been outside in several months. We asked (through translation of course) if he needed anything from the store and he requested grapefruit, cottage cheese, and water. We told him we'd return with the goods later in the day.

(following are some pics I took during a walk to the center this evening; at right, evening falls in the park)

Nathan, Dennis, and I then headed downtown to finish our investigation of options for the trip to Turkey. First stop was the car rental agency I had contacted before leaving the States. Got a price on a diesel Ford Fusion (I believe it's smaller and different than the American version). Turns out the “unlimited kilometers” I had been promised was only for driving within Moldova. Price is still doable though. Then we got an air fare quote to see if we could beat what Nathan found a few days ago; we missed the earlier price by one Euro. Then checked buses to Turkey. Turns out that the bus lines shut down their routes to Turkey this late in the year. Happy about that. And because of the few flights going between here and Istanbul, we can get there as soon or even sooner by car. We're pretty much decided on renting here and driving.

Got a very late lunch in the center, and then it was time to get a haircut. Had dreaded this. Got it cut in Starkville last minute to make it last as long as possible. Thankfully, Dennis was with us and at least I could give some instruction. And actually, it looks pretty much like my normal haircuts, though I would have preferred a little more cut off. Finished our 5 hour trip to town by stopping by the hospital again to drop off the food items for Valerii.

Then last night was our Tuesday night study at the church meeting place. Only a few were present, so I held off on my planned study, and answered a question Serghei Sergheiovich's father-in-law had about translations and the reasons for their differences. The rest of the time, Serghei had Nathan and me teach them some new songs, which he again recorded as per the procedure previously described.

(Stephen the Great, ruler of Moldova from 1457 to 1504; statesman and military tactician; defended Moldova against the Ottoman invasion, building churches or monasteries in thanks to God after each victory)

Today we were in Balti, where I answered questions about how to deal with one who is not listening to counsel and admonition. This grows out of the decision and announcement that Serghei made a couple of weeks ago, that he would no longer give financial assistance to the ladies there unless it were a dire situation (see Oct. 16 entry, “Settling Into Moldova”). On Sunday of this week, one of the ladies about whom Serghei had worried that material help might be a central motivator asked for help again. When she was answered in the negative, she became upset and said she would not be back. Thus the question in Balti today.

(intersection of Pushkin St. and
Stephen-the-Great; government building in background)

Tomorrow morning should be interesting. I mentioned last week that one of the ladies from the Benderi congregation would be inviting all those of the Benderi congregation to come to her flat this week to hear some discussion on the problems of institutionalism, power centers within the congregation, and on what is going on in that congregation (see Oct. 26 entry, “Developments in Tiraspol/Benderi”). Then on Sunday there were some developments within the Benderi congregation, of which I am as of yet unclear, but will find out on the way in the morning as we drive to Benderi for that meeting. I see obstacles to reaching very many: there appears to be in a number of them a desire to accept many things if they can just keep what American money has bought them, a very nice building, clothing, and big meals bought and paid for. But we will see what can be accomplished, and hope that a number will come.